Lille julaften brings light in the darkness

Seattle's Nordic community gathers to honor its heritage

Each year on lille julaften, Dec. 23, lanterns are placed by the memorial stones at Leif Erikson Plaza at Shilshole Bay in Ballard to honor those who came before us.

In Norway, Dec. 23 is “lille julaften,” or "Little Christmas Eve,” the evening before Christmas Eve. It’s the day that the Christmas tree is decorated, holiday foods are prepared, and final touches are put in place for the next day's big celebration. Families gather around their television to watch the classic comedy sketch "Grevinnen og hovmesteren“—Dinner for One”—as they come together to create a warm and cozy atmosphere in their homes.

But perhaps the most beautiful lille julaften tradition takes place outside of the home, when Norwegians go to light the graves of their family members and forebears who have been laid to rest. They place candles, lanterns, evergreen wreaths, or flowers on the graves of their loved ones. Around Norway, there is a magical glow in cemeteries, with the candlelight often reflecting on the snow.  This  light in the winter darkness is a way to connect with those no longer with us, to tell them they are still with us in our hearts.

A larger-than-life bronze statue of Leif Erikson, regarded to the father of Nordic immigration, looks out to the sea at Shilshole Bay in Seattle's Ballard neighborhood

Variations of the tradition are found in Finland and Iceland, and it has even made its way to the Netherlands. 

Much closer to home, for the past 10 years, it has been a tradition for the Leif Erikson International Foundation (LEIF) to invite the Nordic community to join them to commemorate lille julaften at Leif Erikson Plaza at Seattle's Shilshole Bay in Ballard.

The Leif Erikson Plaza is not a cemetery, but it is home to a massive bronze statue of Leif Erikson, regarded as the father of Nordic immigration and a set of runic-inspired stones with plaques of names of first-generation Nordic immigrants. In total, there are 2,351 names, most closely connected to the Pacific Northwest region.  

Each year, lille julaften at Shilshole Bay is both a contemplative and joyous gathering for the Nordic community.

“These names are family to us,” says Kristine Leander, LEIF president, “and we want to honor them and our heritage during the holiday season.” 

It was Leander who brought the tradition from Norway to Seattle after spending two years studying and working in Trondheim.

This year also felt very special, since we have just marked 200 years of organized Norwegian immigration to North America. As part of this celebration, an initiative was undertaken with the Seattle-Bergen Sister City Association (SBSCA)  to add a new plaque with the names of 53+ immigrants, corresponding to the number of Norwegians who traveled from Stavanger to New York City in 1825. The new plaque will be unveiled later this spring.

In Ballard, we came together to place lanterns at the foot of each stone, to sing favorite Christmas hymns and songs, and to enjoy one another’s company. Three members of the Skandia Kapell led by fiddler Kris Johansson were there to provide the instrumental background, Afterwards, members of the LEIF board provided coffee, hot cider, and holiday ginger snaps, as everyone wished one another a “god jul.”

The popular Skandia Kapell led by fiddler Kris Johansson (left) was present to provide the musical backdrop for the evening, as the community came together to sing favorite Christmas songs.

The sun had set on a clear sky over Shilshole Bay, and while there was no snow on the ground, you could not imagine a more beautiful evening. For many of us, it is a favorite holiday event each year. There is nothing commercial about it, as everyone takes time out of their busy holiday schedule to come together for a moment of solemnity and joy. It gives us a chance to slow down, honor our heritage, and remember the true meaning of Christmas.

All photos by Lori Ann Reinhall